The more grain you add, the more compaction you get. Another factor might be the tall shape of the malt tube, which again piles up a ton of grain on top of a relatively small area and compacts the grain bed. Once you raise the malt tube the wort just pours out and over-compacts the grain bed. I think the primary reason it suffers on larger batches is inability to control the outflow of the sparge.
If it were at least consistent I could plan for it and adjust the grain bill. I've tried a fine crush, adding rice hulls, stirring throughout the mash, not stirring, mash-out at 170F and sparging hot. Everything else is great, but I just can't seem to get efficiency to be predictable and with such low numbers on higher gravity batches there's no way to fit enough grain in there to make a 5 gallon batch above 7%. This is my 7th brew on the system, and I'm about ready to throw in the towel for mashing. I basically could have added a pound less grain and ended up with the same gravity. Above it declines pretty steeply, where my latest with a target gravity of 1.068 and 14.5 lbs of grain came out at 59% efficiency. This resulted in 1-2L trub/cold break in the first brew, which had higher efficiency, and practically zero trub in the second brew, which had lower efficiency (but in actual fact didn't, as after the trub volume was taken out of the equation then the efficiency was similar.Īnything at or below 12 lbs I'm getting about 70% efficiency.
For the second brew I couldn't, so recirculated to 10-15 minutes before I started to fill the fermentor. The first brew I could do a single pass on my plate chiller, so being lazy/time starved I did. For example my last 2 brews were using the same recipe, the first time using WLP925 high pressure lager yeast pitching at 20C, the second WLP802 pitching at 11.5C. If I need to go over 5.5kgs I usually just reduce the grain bill to 5.5kgs while keeping similar %s of each grain, then add a couple of 100gs of dextrose/brewing sugars in the boil depending on style - but that's just because I'm lazy and like it to be easier, haha!Īnother thing to consider is how much cold break/trub in general you transfer to the fermentor, and if that has changed since switching to the robobrew. Tannins need either major pressure applied or out of whack pH, so you should be okay - which reminds me - when I'm lifting the malt pipe off the robobrew when it's finished sparging I tilt it slightly and use my fingers to push the screen at the bottom up a little - this makes more wort come out of the malt pipe (every little helps, haha!).
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